Fly of the Week – Pink Tail Caddis Jig

Fishtec fly Of The Week

The Pink Tail Caddis is Kieron’s variant of the ‘peeping caddis’. Tied in exactly the same manor as the original, but with the addition of a CDC hackle and tied onto a jig hook. The jig hook helps this fly fish head down with the pink tag facing upwards, hopefully looking more enticing to the awaiting fish. This pattern can be easily changed by simply altering the colours of the wool – It is also good to change the position of the hackle such as around the bend of the hook just after attaching the tail.

Take a length of wool and burn the end with a sighter. Slowly push the end of the wool towards the flame to singe the end and create a dark ball. This will act as the caddis’s head. Slot a slotted bead onto a Jig hook, here I have used a 3mm tungsten bead with a size 12 Fulling Mill Force Jig Hook. Attach brown UTC 70 denier to the hook and build a layer of thread behind the bead. This is to ensure the bead stays in place and doesn’t slip down the hook.

Run a layer of thread to the back of the hook, stopping short of the bend and attaching the tail. Cover the cut off of the wool with thread to create a net, even under body and attach a length of gold wire to the hook. Dub a generous amount of Hares Ear fur to the thread in an even formation, this ensures the body stays even throughout the length of the fly, just like the real thing. Wind the dubbing to the head of the fly and stop just short of the bead. Wind the rib through the body in even, spacious turns and tie off.

Prepare a CDC feather for the hackle, stroking the fibres back from the tip so it can be tied securely in place behind the bead. Clamp the hackle pliers to the CDC stalk and wind onto the hook. I prefer just one turn of CDC, but add as many to your satisfaction. Tie in and tidy up with more dubbing. Pull the CDC feathers back along the fly and tare where you feel necessary to create a ‘leggy’ look.

 Pink Tail Caddis Material list

Hook: Fulling Mill Force Jig Hook Size 12
Bead: Slotted 3.5mm Gold Tungsten Bead
Thread: Brown UTC 70 Denier
Tail: Wool (burnt)
Rib: Gold Wire
Body: Hares Ear
Hackle: CDC (wound)
Thorax: Hares Ear


Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the Week – Diawl Bach

Fishtec fly of the week
The Diawl Bach, or ‘Little Devil’ in English has been a devastating fly on the competition scene for years, aiding many anglers to take first place on many occasions.  The Diawl Bach imitates an emerging, hatching buzzer but can also be taken for a host of other nymphs, tied in many various guises and colours the Diawl is ideal for replicating the hatch of many other water-born insects such as olives and mayflies.

How to tie the Diawl Bach

Simply attach a hook into the vice, here I have used a Kamasan b175 nymph hook, it’s strong and a firm favourite of mine. I also tie these on lighter wire hooks to use when fishing closer to the surface or in and around weed, just to keep the fly in the taking zone.

Run a layer of thread down the hook and stop just opposite the barb. I drab colour thread is the best choice as it doesn’t show through the peacock herl. Peel off five or six strands of red game hackle and measure to the length of the body and tie in over the back of the hook, keeping everything aligned with the hook shank. Attach a length of gold wire as the rib and run the thread to the eye of the hook covering the waste.

Tie in a one strand of peacock then run the thread back down the hook and return to the eye once all the waste has been covered. Wind the herl to just below the thorax area and tie off, wind the gold rib in an opposite direction to secure the body for fishes teeth.

In the remaining space attach two lengths of silver medium holographic tinsel to each side of the hook, these will later be used for cheeks. Tie in another length of peacock herl and wind towards the head, covering the thread. Tie off and pull each tinsel cheek to the eye individually trying to keep them square to the shank of the hook.

To create the beard hackle, measure up five or six strands of red game hackle against the length of the hook and tie in underneath the shank. A couple of tight turns and tie off . Re-attach a different colour thread, changing the head colour can have a massive change on the fly. A bright head such as the above can be a great middle dropper fly when using a team of lures, or a drab head could entice older fish in the lake to feed. Also try changing the cheeks, use different materials and colours to find a combination you like.

Diawl Bach Tying Materials

Hook: Kamasan b175 Size 10
Thread: Brown Uni Thread
Tail: 5/6 strands Red Game
Rib: Gold Wire
Body: Peacock Herl
Cheeks: Silver Holographic
Thorax: Peacock Herl
Beard hackle: 5/6 strands red game
Head: Fl.Orange 140 UTC

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the Week – Hot Spot Pheasant Tail

Fly of the Week - Fishtec
The Hot Spot Pheasant tail is a great pattern for both river or lake. This pattern was originally designed by Frank Swayer and has evolved from his original swayer nymph. The hot spot gives the fish a trigger point in clear water and also adds to its visibility in coloured water. Picked out the thorax could look like legs and would represent most insects that inhabit the lake or river bed.

Thread a bead onto a strong hook, here I have used a kamasan hook B175 size 12 with a 3mm gold bead. Tungsten beads are a great addition to a river nymph.

Run a layer of white UTC thread down the hook until opposite the barb. Take six or seven strands of pheasant tail fibres and attach to the back of the hook. Measure the length accordingly to the hook shank and wind the thread over the hook and excess pheasant tail to just over half of the way back to the eye, leaving the excess PT out the front, this will become the thorax cover.

Attach a length of gold wire to the hook and run the thread down to the back of the hook. Again, attach another four or five strands of pheasant tail to the hook, this time in reverse to form the body. Tying in tip first means that you create a tapered effect on the body as the pheasant is wound towards the eye. Wind the body up in touching turns and, tie off just in front of the thorax cover. Wind the rib in the opposite direction to secure the body and tie off.

Twist a piece of orange antrondubbing onto the thread, creating a rope around an inch in length. Wind the dubbing onto the thorax towards the eye and pull the thorax cover over the thorax. Simple secure with a few wraps of thread and tie off.

Hot spot pheasant tail tying materials

Hooks: Kamasan 175 size 10
Bead: 3mm Gold Bead
Thread: White UTC 70 denier
Tail: Pheasant tail
Rib: Gold Wire
Body: Pheasant Tail
Thorax Cover: Pheasant Tail
Thorax: Orange Antron Dub

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the Week – Yellow Dancer

Fly of the Week
The lure to have in your fly box this winter! Take a look here how to tie the yellow dancer, a fly with Scottish roots that can be accounted for some of the best and biggest fish catches all around the country.  This lure puts movement and life into the fly without being too over the top. Try tying it in as many different colour combinations as you can think of, they all work!

Attach a 3mm rainbow bead to a size 8 Kamasan b175, this fly works in a range of sizes so don’t be shy to experiment. Build a layer of White UTC Thread behind the bead to secure it in place. Run a layer of thread down the hook shanks and stop just opposite the barb.

Tare a piece of marabou from the stalk, around an inch and a half should give plenty of movement. What I like to do is cut the waste material off, pull the short herls forward and then pull them from each stalk (shown in the video at 0:40 seconds). This helps when tying the marabou in, it allows a thinner base layer underneath your body material. Tie the waste end of the marabou onto the hook shank and run the thread towards the top of the hook, completely covering the waste.

Attach a length of Uni soft Wire and pearl mylar tinsel to the top of the hook then run a layer of thread back down to the tail and back up, in touching turns. Creating a perfect base layer to run the body.

Wind the pearl tinsel to the top of the hook in touching turns, cover the body with a few layer, just to give the pearl a more pronounced colouration. It also helps by giving the body more robustness. Tie the pearl off after two or three layers.

Attach a yellow hackle just behind the bead, make sure its long enough be wound four or five times along the hook shank! Cut away the excess stalk and tie down. Attach a hackle pliers at the tips and wind down the hook in even spacings. Gently hold at the back of the hook and tie in with the wire. Whilst winding the rib try and wobble the wire back and fore this helps to keep the hackles standing proud and not got trapped down.

Simple tie off the wire, break it free and whip finish.

The Yellow Dancer- Tying Materials 

Hook: Kamasan 175 Size 8
Bead: 3mm Rianbow bead
Thread: UTC White 70 Denier
Tail: White Marabou
Rib: Silver Oval Wire
Body: Pearl Mylar Tinsel
Hackle: Yellow Cock

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the Week – Klinkhammer

Fly of the Week
The weathers changing, more frequent clear skies only means one thing at this time of year.. Frosts! Frosts mean Grayling. Grayling have recently became a big part of fly anglers hit list with more and more fisherman chasing the lady of the stream. This weeks fly of the week is the Klinkhammer, it’s a brilliant all round dry fly, river or lake, summer or winter. This fly is a great searching pattern and will bring the fish up in slow or fast flowing water.

Klinkhammers can be tied on basically any curved hooks. My favourite is the Partridge 15bn, in sizes smaller than 16. Another firm favourite is the Kamasan  b100, a lightweight curved hook which has a great profile for representing emergers. Actual ‘Klinkhammer’ hooks seem to be two sizes bigger than stated so have a check before you order any.

Build a layer of White UTC Thread at the thorax, this will help hold the post in place. Take two strands of Funky indicator post in any colour you wish, I usually use white, but black, pink or olive work well, some colours stand out more than others depending on the light. Loop the two strands around the bottom of the hook and pull upwards, this in effect doubles the thickness of the post, it should be four strands thick. This obviously depends of the thickness of your material and the size of the fly.

To secure in place, simply tie over each side of the post, meeting in the middle and then tying around the base of the post. This ensures rigidity of the post and give a great platform for winding the hackle. Tie the hackle in just like you would a wet fly, making sure it sits on top of the hook and securely to the post.  Run the thread down the hook trapping the stalk waste side of the hackle.

After a layer of thread has been wound to the hook shank, take your dubbing and apply a rope to your thread. I like to use the super fine dubbing box selection, its colours match the hatch to most insects and it’s fairly easy to blend. Tan is one of my favourites, when it gets wet the colour changes slightly darker. Your dubbing should be bulkier than normal, this give the fly shape and once waterlogged the body will fall into the surface and be held up by the surface area of the hackle. Wind the body towards to bottom of the post, creating a fine and evenly tapered body.

Select two fine strands of peacock herl, take then from the eye of the peacock feather, they’re have less ‘herl’ and make a great thorax. Tie these in behind the post and figure of eight the strands around the tying at the post and run towards the eye. Simply tie this off and attach a hackle pliers to the hackle. Wind the hackle around the post, making each turn of hackle below the previous. This is to make sure you pack as much hackle onto the post as tight as possible.

Lie the hackle down, leaving the pliers hang, secure in with two or three turns of thread ensuring not to trap any fibres. Cut off, and pull the fibres up and back, coming from below the hook. Create a head and simply whip finish off. Apply a small amount of varnish to the head to ensure security.

Klinkhammer Tying Materials 

Hook: Partridge 15BN size 12
Thread: UTC White 70 Denier
Post: Funky Indicator Post
Hackle: Red Game
Body: Tan – Super fine dubbing
Thorax: Peacock herl

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the Week – Roach Fry Pattern

Fly of the Week
At this time of year fry are in abundance and occupy the most structural parts of the lake. Boat jetties, boils, floating weed rafts or buoy markers seem to be favourites. It’s not often you see a shoal of fry in the middle of nowhere, but when you do, you can almost guarantee something to be lurking beneath. This weeks fly of the week is a video of how to tie a Roach Fry. Have a look at the you-tube clip below for a tutorial.

Tying Instructions

Fulling mill all purpose hooks are ideal for fry patterns, they offer a powerful strong bend, sharp points and a great shank and gape for packing on the material.

Run a layer of White UTC Thread for a layer of lead wire to sit on. The wire can be varied depending on how heavy you want the fly, here I have used a medium thickness which gives a fair amount of weight to the fly, but not making it too heavy to cast. Remember, the wing will hold water and add weight to the cast. Wind the lead to the eye, leaving sufficient room to tie the wing off. Cover the lead in a couple of layers of thread to ensure when wet the thread wont loose its colour.

Mylar tubing is the ideal body material for this fly, its available in a wide range of colours and sizes which give your fly a great profile and also ‘scaly’ look on the flanks. Simply cut the end flush and remove the inside core. Push the tube over the hook leaving around 5/6mm of the frayed end over the back of the hook. This frayed area lets the wing sit up have less chance of it running around the hook bend.

Latch a length of Rabbit zonker strip to the hook. Measure against the hook the length of the ‘tail’ and part the fur to expose the skin, simply place the rabbit strip in position and wind the thread onto the exposed skin and pull tight. Pull the whole of the rabbit strip back and tie the thread off.

Re-tie the thread at the top of the hook at the same time tying in the mylar tube. Once happy with it security push the tube towards the eye so it ‘bulbs’ up and cut as close as you can to the thread. Pull the rabbit strip forward and separate the fur where you want to tie in, gently pull the thread through the gap secure in place. Cut the skin as tight as you can to the tying thread and cover the stump with thread and tie off.

Adding eyes to this fly completely transforms it from a fly, giving the fish something to ‘target’, I prefer to use funky 3d epoxy eyes, they are strong and very reliable. Ideal for attaching to fry patterns.  Add a small amount of bug bond to the side of the fly at the head and spread just onto the body, attach a 3d eye and cure with a UV torch. Repeat the process on the opposite side and the fly is complete.

Suspend Fry Tying Materials 

Hook: Fulling Mill AP hook Size 8
Thread: UTC White 70 Denier
Underbody: Medium Lead Wire
Wing: White rabbit zonker Strip
Body: Pearl Mylar Tube
Eyes: Funky Fly tying  Red/Silver holographic eyes

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the Week – White Minky

Fly of the Week
Minkies or Zonkers are the ‘go to’ fly when the fish are feeding on fry. They can be tied in many colour variations and size to represent their preferred food source. A minky offers plenty of movement, especially with the addition of a heavily leaded body. Not only do zonkers give a great ‘up & down’ motion when pulled but a ‘wiggling’ effect when steadily retrieved. This weeks fly of the week is the White Minky/Zonker. Watch the tying video and give it a go!

Tying Instructions

For flies such as these I prefer to use Kamasan b175 size 8 hooks, they give a good length shank and also add some additional weight. The hook is also very strong and reliable, you need something you can trust when playing the fish of a lifetime!

Run a layer of White UTC Thread to about opposite the barb and attach a length of lead wire. The wire density can be varied depending on how heavy you want the fly. Wind the lead to the eye, leaving sufficient room to tie the wing off. Cover the lead in a couple of layers of white thread.

Attaching the Rabbit zonker strip is simple. Measure against the hook the length of the ‘tail’ and part the fur to expose the skin, simply place the rabbit strip in position and wind the thread onto the exposed skin and pull tight. Two or three turns should do. Pull the whole of the rabbit strip back and attach a piece of hot yellow wire for the rib and also a length of white/uv hippy fritz .

Wind the fritz to about the same position of where you ended the lead wire, making sure to stoke the fritz back after each turn. This ensures none are trapped or bulk the fly up. Pull the rabbit strip across the back of the fly to the eye and part the fur again to tie in securely. Run the rib through the rabbit and to the eye, this secures the rabbit strip in place and enhances the overall durability of the fly.  I found the easiest way to part the fur when ribbing is to use a dubbing needle, place the needle through the fur and pull upwards parting each section and then run the wire through and round the fly. Tie off.

Adding eyes to a minky or zonker completely transforms a boring fly, I prefer to use funky 3d epoxy eyes, they are strong and very reliable. Ideal for attaching to fry patterns. Here I have used the ‘tab’ versions which are great for tying into small flies, or flies which have a hammering and the eyes can be changed or re-used. The extended holographic tab allows you to tie the eye into the fly wherever you want without the use of any glue substances. Simply attach an eye to each side of the hook and tie off. Glue the head to make sure your flies doesn’t fall apart.

Suspend Fry Tying Materials 

Hook: Kamasan B175 Size 8
Thread: UTC White 70 Denier
Underbody: Medium Lead Wire
Wing: White rabbit zonker Strip
Body: White/UV straggle Fritz
Rib: Hot Yellow Wire
Eyes: Funky Fly tying  gold holographic tab eyes

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the Week – Floating Fry

Fly of the Week
It’s that time of year where ‘fry’ are at their optimum size to be engulfed by predators. Sticking close together in packs fry create an easy target for awaiting predators such as rainbow & brown trout, perch, pike and even bream. Fish tend to ‘smash’ into a pack of fry, stunning or killing as many fry as possible, they then go in, and mop them up… This is where the simple Floating Fry comes in.

Tying Instructions

Cut a booby eye cylinder in half length ways and in half again, this should be thin enough to go through the middle of the mylar tubing. Depending on the size of the fry you’re trying to represent cut the tube accordingly, here i’ve cut it to about 8mm in length.

Just like putting a braided loop onto a fly line, thread the foam through the middle of the mylar tubing using the ‘push and pull’ method. Push the two ends of the mylar together so it opens up, and pull the foam through the middle until its around half way through.

Insert a clean needle into the vice, with the taper pointing outwards and wrap five or six turns of UTC thread to the needle. UTC is good here becuase tis flat and will slide from the needle, more on that later.

Offer the mylar tube and foam up to the top of the needle and secure the tube to the top with a few turns of thread, ensuring to pull down tight on each turn, whip finish and tie off. Hold firmly the thread wraps and gently wobble and twist the tube from the needle. Repeat the same process on the opposite side of the foam. This traps the foam in the middle, between the thread, not only does it stop the foam from coming out but creates the perfect fry shape. Cut one end tight to the tying thread and the other a few MM short, the tail end.

Insert a Kamasan b175 nymph/lure size 8 hook into the vice – Fish of any size could have a go at these flies when on the surface, you need a hook which will take the strain of playing a fish of a lifetime.. A size10 could be a little small…Run a wrap of thread down the hook, and back to the top securing with a whip finish. This creates a bed for the mylar tube to sit on.

Make a small insertion 2/3rds of the way down the hook and another 1/3rd and thread the tube over the hook, into the bottom cut and out the top. Some people like the fry to sit almost on the bend of the hook, this is good for getting the fly to ‘jump’ when pulled. I prefer to keep it in the middle as this ensures strength and security on the hook.

Once happy with the positioning of the fry, add a good amount of bug bond to the underside of the hook, ensuring you cover each cut and the whole of the thread. ‘Zap’ the glue with a bug bond uv light to cure the glue.

Floating Fry Tying Materials 

Hook: Kamasan b175 Size 8
Thread: UTC Olive 70 Denier
Body: Pearl Mylar Tubing
Inner body: White foam cut to size
Glue: Bug bond

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the Week – The Cruncher

Fly of the Week

This weeks ‘Fly of the Week’ has the be the Cruncher. A generic, all round pattern which can be tied in a variety of styles, colours and sizes. My most favourite thing about this fly is that it can be tied to represent anything from corixa, olive nymphs or even small fry. A fly which can be used anywhere on the cast, it makes a great dropper or point fly. This fly can also be used to good effect between two boobies at the start of the season, ideal to entice those fish which follow the boobies out of interest.

Tying Instructions

Insert a Kamasan b175 size 10 hook into the vice – The great thing about this fly is that varying the hook gauge and size you can represent almost anything that inhabits the bottom of a reservoir.

Run your UTC thread down the hook, laying a perfectly flat bed of thread to tie over. Take five or six strands of red game hackle to use as the tail and attach with a couple of thread wraps. The tail should be kept to about the same length as the overall body, just to keep things in proportion.

Attach a rib of Uni Soft Wire, vary the colour depending on what fly you’re looking to represent. Latch three our four strands of pheasant tail to the back of the hook for the body then run the thread back to the top of the hook leaving a gap of about 1/3 for the thorax. Wind the few strands of pheasant back up the hook in touching turns and tie off. To secure, wind the wire rib in an opposite direction to the body, evenly spacing each turn to give a nice segmented effect.

The thorax is usually a darker colour than the body such as it is on most insects, here I’ve used olive glister but any sort of dubbing and fur can be applied. Create a dubbing rope but don’t tighten too much, this will allow the thorax to be picked out – especially after a couple of fish. Build a neat tapered thorax leaving enough space at the head to tie the hackle.

Prepare a hen furnace feather, the type with a black centre and light tips, by removing the fluff at the bottom of the stalk. Tie in at the head with a couple of turns of thread and wind the hack around the collar just once. Hackle turns can be varies to influence sink rate, the more turns, the slower the cruncher would sink. Tie the hackle in and varnish.

Cruncher Tying Materials 

Hook: Kamasan b175 Size 10
Thread: UTC Olive 7- Denier
Tail: Red Game 5/6 Strands
Body: Pheasant Tail 4 Strands
Rib: Silver wire
Thorax: Olive Glister
Hackle: Natural Hen Furnace

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the week – Black Hopper

Fly of the Week Last weeks ‘Fly of the week‘ was the Shipmans Buzzer a great emerger pattern which takes it’s fair share of fish. But what happens when the buzzer has hatched and is classed under its ‘adult’ stage. The Hopper is the ideal fly to represent an adult chironomid sitting on the surface. Once the fly has hatched it stays on the surface for a while until it’s wings have dried, allowing the fly to become airborne. Another stage of it’s life where it is extremely vulnerable.

Tying Instructions

Kamasan B405 hook is the ideal steel for such hooks. Lightwire and strong, these hooks let the fly sit as high on the surfaces as possible and give anglers peace of mind that the fish of a lifetime wont straighten the hook.

Wind the UTC thread thread onto the hook just behind they eye and lay a layer of thread down the shank. Simply attach a length of UTC Mirage Tinsel to the hook for the rib and create dubbing rope of genuine seals fur, black but choose the colour according to the insect colour on the day. A range of colours is best.

Just like the Shipmans Buzzer wind the seals fur along the hook creating a slim but slightly tapered effect leaving enough room to tie in a thorax. Wind the rib in an opposite direction to the seals fur three times is usually enough to give a segmented effect. Bulk the rest of the fly up with a good amount of seals fur, creating a  ‘carrot’ shape, thicker at the head than the tail. Always remember to leave enough room between the thorax and the eye when tying hoppers, there’s a lot of work to do at the end of the fly.

Ready knotted pheasant tails make tying hoppers so much easier and quicker. Sitting there with a dubbing needle and a pheasant tail tying knots in thin and brittle feather can become daunting and very stressful. Pulling 6 of these of a full ready knotted pheasant tail feather makes tying such flies a breeze. Take 6 or so feathers, marry up the tips and simply tie in on the underneath of the hook, trim the waste and prepare the hackle.

Take a hackle feather from a cape, something that will produce enough mass to keep the fly afloat. Remove the waste from the bottom of the feather – this should reveal the stalk and make it easy to tie in. Tie the feather in and attach your hackle pliers, wind the hackle back towards the bend of the hook in touching turns, covering the thread just above the thorax. Tie off and ‘wobble’ the thread between the hackle ensuring not to trap any herls and tie the thread off at the eye.

 Material List

Hook: Kamasan B405 Size 10
Thread: UTC Black 70 Denier
Rib: UTC Mirage Tinsel
Body: Black Genuine Seals Fur
Thorax: Black Genuine Seals Fur
Legs: 6x knotted hopper legs
Hackle: Black Cock

Fly of the week 1

Fly of the week 2

Fly of the week 3

Written by Kieron Jenkins