Fly of the Week – Roach Fry Pattern

Fly of the Week
At this time of year fry are in abundance and occupy the most structural parts of the lake. Boat jetties, boils, floating weed rafts or buoy markers seem to be favourites. It’s not often you see a shoal of fry in the middle of nowhere, but when you do, you can almost guarantee something to be lurking beneath. This weeks fly of the week is a video of how to tie a Roach Fry. Have a look at the you-tube clip below for a tutorial.

Tying Instructions

Fulling mill all purpose hooks are ideal for fry patterns, they offer a powerful strong bend, sharp points and a great shank and gape for packing on the material.

Run a layer of White UTC Thread for a layer of lead wire to sit on. The wire can be varied depending on how heavy you want the fly, here I have used a medium thickness which gives a fair amount of weight to the fly, but not making it too heavy to cast. Remember, the wing will hold water and add weight to the cast. Wind the lead to the eye, leaving sufficient room to tie the wing off. Cover the lead in a couple of layers of thread to ensure when wet the thread wont loose its colour.

Mylar tubing is the ideal body material for this fly, its available in a wide range of colours and sizes which give your fly a great profile and also ‘scaly’ look on the flanks. Simply cut the end flush and remove the inside core. Push the tube over the hook leaving around 5/6mm of the frayed end over the back of the hook. This frayed area lets the wing sit up have less chance of it running around the hook bend.

Latch a length of Rabbit zonker strip to the hook. Measure against the hook the length of the ‘tail’ and part the fur to expose the skin, simply place the rabbit strip in position and wind the thread onto the exposed skin and pull tight. Pull the whole of the rabbit strip back and tie the thread off.

Re-tie the thread at the top of the hook at the same time tying in the mylar tube. Once happy with it security push the tube towards the eye so it ‘bulbs’ up and cut as close as you can to the thread. Pull the rabbit strip forward and separate the fur where you want to tie in, gently pull the thread through the gap secure in place. Cut the skin as tight as you can to the tying thread and cover the stump with thread and tie off.

Adding eyes to this fly completely transforms it from a fly, giving the fish something to ‘target’, I prefer to use funky 3d epoxy eyes, they are strong and very reliable. Ideal for attaching to fry patterns.  Add a small amount of bug bond to the side of the fly at the head and spread just onto the body, attach a 3d eye and cure with a UV torch. Repeat the process on the opposite side and the fly is complete.

Suspend Fry Tying Materials 

Hook: Fulling Mill AP hook Size 8
Thread: UTC White 70 Denier
Underbody: Medium Lead Wire
Wing: White rabbit zonker Strip
Body: Pearl Mylar Tube
Eyes: Funky Fly tying  Red/Silver holographic eyes

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the week – Simple Bloodworm Pattern

The bloodworm pattern is an imitation of the common chironomid midge or buzzer. The bloodworm is the early stage of a chironomids life, the lava. Bloodworm tend to spend the majority of their life living in soft mud or silt, when they’re active, the fish simply cant resist them! Silt is usually located at the deepest part of the lake around weed and reeds or in bays which are generally sheltered from prevailing winds. Locating these areas should provide the angler with great fly fishing early on in the season when fish are feeding close to the bottom.

Tying Instructions

Fasten a tungsten or gold bead to a strong, heavy gauge hook. Here I’ve used a Kamasan B110 hook, along with a veniard 3mm gold bead. A 3mm bead will fit either a size 10 or 12 hook perfectly.

Latch the thread onto the hook, building up a wall of thread behind the bead to stop it sliding down the hook whilst tying. Red UTC thread is ideal for this pattern, the multi stranded fine denier thread lies flat and evenly spreads when tying key materials to the hook. Wind the thread in touching turns down the body to opposite the barb, stopping here will leave plenty of room for the body.

Attaching a tail which will entice fish when the fly is falling or holding near the bottom, in theory, should increase catch rate. The tail on this bloodworm pattern is twisted flexi floss, to achieve this, hold a piece of red flexi floss three inches apart, and roll between your thumb and forefinger in opposite directions. After enough rolling the flexi floss will then fold in the middle and twist around each other creating a loop. Create the tail about the same length as the body. Secure in place with two to three thread wraps and then continue up the body, pulling the flexi floss over the back and trapping in with spaced even turns of thread, creating a ribbed effect over the floss/shellback. As you reach the bead, leave a few millimetres free and cut off the flexi floss.

Tie over the cut off from the flexi floss and create a short inch long rope of florescent red seals fur to create the thorax. Keep the rope quite loose so it can be pulled out with your dubbing brush for movement. Tie towards the eye whip finish and varnish – The fly is ready to go!

 Material List

Hook: Kamasan B110 Size 10
Bead: Veniards Gold Bead 3mm
Thread: UTC Red 70 Denier
Tail: Twisted Red Flexifloss
Body: Red thread
Shellback Cover: Red Flexifloss
Rib: Red thread
Thorax: Red Seal Fur

Fly of the week 2

Fly of the week 3

Written by Kieron Jenkins