Fly of the Week – Floating Fry

Fly of the Week
It’s that time of year where ‘fry’ are at their optimum size to be engulfed by predators. Sticking close together in packs fry create an easy target for awaiting predators such as rainbow & brown trout, perch, pike and even bream. Fish tend to ‘smash’ into a pack of fry, stunning or killing as many fry as possible, they then go in, and mop them up… This is where the simple Floating Fry comes in.

Tying Instructions

Cut a booby eye cylinder in half length ways and in half again, this should be thin enough to go through the middle of the mylar tubing. Depending on the size of the fry you’re trying to represent cut the tube accordingly, here i’ve cut it to about 8mm in length.

Just like putting a braided loop onto a fly line, thread the foam through the middle of the mylar tubing using the ‘push and pull’ method. Push the two ends of the mylar together so it opens up, and pull the foam through the middle until its around half way through.

Insert a clean needle into the vice, with the taper pointing outwards and wrap five or six turns of UTC thread to the needle. UTC is good here becuase tis flat and will slide from the needle, more on that later.

Offer the mylar tube and foam up to the top of the needle and secure the tube to the top with a few turns of thread, ensuring to pull down tight on each turn, whip finish and tie off. Hold firmly the thread wraps and gently wobble and twist the tube from the needle. Repeat the same process on the opposite side of the foam. This traps the foam in the middle, between the thread, not only does it stop the foam from coming out but creates the perfect fry shape. Cut one end tight to the tying thread and the other a few MM short, the tail end.

Insert a Kamasan b175 nymph/lure size 8 hook into the vice – Fish of any size could have a go at these flies when on the surface, you need a hook which will take the strain of playing a fish of a lifetime.. A size10 could be a little small…Run a wrap of thread down the hook, and back to the top securing with a whip finish. This creates a bed for the mylar tube to sit on.

Make a small insertion 2/3rds of the way down the hook and another 1/3rd and thread the tube over the hook, into the bottom cut and out the top. Some people like the fry to sit almost on the bend of the hook, this is good for getting the fly to ‘jump’ when pulled. I prefer to keep it in the middle as this ensures strength and security on the hook.

Once happy with the positioning of the fry, add a good amount of bug bond to the underside of the hook, ensuring you cover each cut and the whole of the thread. ‘Zap’ the glue with a bug bond uv light to cure the glue.

Floating Fry Tying Materials 

Hook: Kamasan b175 Size 8
Thread: UTC Olive 70 Denier
Body: Pearl Mylar Tubing
Inner body: White foam cut to size
Glue: Bug bond

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the week – Black Buzzer

Fly of the Week
Following on from last weeks ‘Fly of the week‘ is the Black Buzzer. Again, a buzzer is an imitation of the common chironomid midge. As the bloodworm matures and pupates the next step of it’s life cycle is the pupa. Possibly the most important stage to both trout and angler. This is the stage where the wings form inside it’s thorax and the pupae makes it’s way through the water column to the surface. It’s most vulnerable state.

Tying Instructions

Here I’ve used a Kamasan B110 hook, the heavier the hook the better when fishing a team of buzzers, the flies will fall quickly through the column and hold at the required depth when held by the fly line.

Start off by tying the thread to the hook a few millimetres from the eye and run the thread down the hook, around the bend and to about opposite the barb in touching turns.  UTC thread is the ideal component as it lies flat and spreads along the body very easily with minimum bulk.

The rib, Uni Soft Wire can be tied in at the top or bottom of the shank, I prefer to tie in at the top of the hook, this ensures that the wire is completely covered in two wraps of thread. Tie the wire in with touching turns and run the thread back to the top of the hook, leaving sufficient room for a thorax. Wind the silver wire rib back up the fly leaving equal spacings between each turn, this gives the banding effect which buzzers gain when they fill with air as they work their way to the surface. Finally, leave a gap of about 4mm behind the eye and tie off. Rib Complete.

Tying in Goose Biots. Simply take a goose biots from the stalk and tie in at the back of the thorax by the fine tips of the feather. Simply duplicate on the other side of the hook, and build a neat ‘lemon shape’ thorax (thicker in the middle) and secure with a half hitch at the eye, this helps keep everything in place in case of accidental slips. Pull the two biots forward and secure with a few turns of thread, build a neat head and tie off.

Fly tiers have recently been using a new UV reactive varnish called ‘bug bond‘. A varnish which is set with the use of a UV torch. Simply cover the fly in the glue, less of the glue the better, trying to keep everything as thin as possible but coating the fly for security and weight. Simple ‘zap’ the glue once applied for 15/20 second and the fly is complete.

 Material List

Hook: Kamasan B110 Size 10
Thread: UTC Black 70 Denier
Body: Black thread
Rib: Silver Wire
Thorax: Black Thread
Glue: Bug bond LITE

Fly of the week 1

Fly of the week 3

Written by Kieron Jenkins