Posts Tagged ‘fly tying’

Fly of the Week – Rhyacophila Caddis

fly of the week Fly of the Week   Rhyacophila CaddisThe Rhyacophila Caddis is found in almost all rivers around the UK. It’s a free-living caddis, meaning it doesn’t build a ‘house’. The Larvae like caddis favours shallow riffles and often gets caught in the current and drifts freely downstream, this making them ideal food for trout and grayling. The ‘Rhyacs’ hatch later in the afternoon and the adults can provide some great dry fly action when they return to the water. Tying a Rhyac caddis can be complicated, but here’s a simple little pattern we’ve been using for the grayling this winter.

Attach your favoured hook into the vice, here I’ve used a Fulling Mill Czech Nymph hook. Run your thread along the body to the extreme bend in the hook. Wind a layer of lead into the shank of the hook to add some weight. A tungsten bead can be used but I like these on dropper so a lead underbody is usually enough weight. With your thread, make sure you taper the body to give a slim, streamline effect and ensure you cover the lead with the thread, once the dubbing gets wet, you will get a green glow from the underbody, if you forget to do this, the lead will dampen the colour of the body.

For the rib I’ve used the tag end of thread where I first tied onto the hook. Attach two sides to the fly, FlyBox bleach dyed peacock herl is a great material to imitate the legs. Dub a TIGHT rope of dubbing onto your thread ensuring you get a thin from and back end with a slightly thicker abdomen. In touching turns wind the dubbing towards the eye and pull the side legs along the length of the hook. Secure the body and legs in place with the rib with evenly spaced turns. Tie off and add some black pen to the head of the fly to imitate the Rhyacophila’s wing bud cover.

Fly Tying Materials

Hook: Fulling Mill Czech Nymph 12
Thread: Glo Bright No12
Underbody: Medium Lead Wire
Rib: Glo Bright No12
Body: Rhyac Green Dubbing
Sides: Bleach Dyed Peacock – Chart
Colour: Black Pen

Fly Tying Tips – How to tie in Peacock Herl

Even the best peacock herl strands are very brittle so constructing a fly with a tear and rip proof body is a tough task without bulking it up too much. In this weeks fly tying tip we’re going to show you how to securely tie in peacock herl and create a great looking peacock body that needs an atomic bomb to destroy.

This tip was shown to be in a fly tying class probably around 12 years ago and has been saving many of my flies from the death of trout teeth. One way to test how good this method of tying peacock herl is – is to use one fly using this technique and another without, you’ll be surprised how quickly the peacock will break.

They tutorial below is obviously just the peacock body, incorporating this method into flies such as diawl bachs, black and peacock spiders, or practically anything with a peacock body, you’ll strengthen the body tenfold.

Fly Tying Tips – How to Strip Peacock Herl

A lot of fly tiers, especially novices, have trouble stripping peacock herl. Some describe it as an art, to get all the tiny herls free from the stalk, ready to tie your favourite buzzers and nymphs with very realistic bodies. 

As a tier I get asked ‘How to strip peacock herl?’ fairly often – there are many different ways fly tiers have come up with, from using the blade of a scissors to an eraser. Personally I like the old fashion approach:

Fly of the Week – Hares Ear Grub

Fly of the week2 Fly of the Week   Hares Ear Grub

The Hares Ear is probably one of the most used flies within the fishing community, here’s we’ve tied a variant which lends itself perfectly to river fishing and ideal for targeting trout and especially grayling in the winter months. The heavy tungsten bead gives it added weight to get to the bottom quickly into the fishes feeding zone. Hares ears are very versatile patterns, try changing the colour of the thorax and bead, this will change the fly completely.

Start off by threading a tungsten bead onto your hook. Here I’ve used a Fulling Mill Czech Nymph hook, it gives a great grubby look to any pattern and is also a great pupa hook. Secure the bead in place by butting up a few turns of lead and fully securing with thread wraps. Cover the lead body to ensure it doesn’t slip down the hook follow the hook shank down around three-quarters of the way around the bend.

Take a length of gold wire and tie in at the back of the hook. Take a decent pinch of Hares ear and create a tight, tapered dubbing rope which will reach the thorax of the fly. Wind in touching turns and secure in place with the gold wire rib. For the thorax I like to use a contrasting colour such as black, orange or yellow. Dub a small amount of dubbing to the thread and wind towards the bead, securing with a whip finish at the head.

Scruffy Hares ear for Grayling 

Hook: Fulling Mill Czech Nymph Size 10
Thread: Black UTC thread
Bead: Gold Tungsten bead 3mm
Underbody: Medium Lead Wire
Rib: Hares Ear
Thorax: Spectra Dub Glister
Varnish: Veniard Clear

Fly of the Week – Sedge Hog

Fly of the week Fly of the Week   Sedge Hog

The Sedge hog was devised as a pattern to convert sedge feeders into fish on the bank. This pattern can be fished dry, pulled just on or in the surface or below the surface to attract fish feeding on sedges and other large insects. Part wet fly, part muddler. A very buoyant fly, this pattern gives some great disturbance to attract fish to other flies on your cast. competition bots use these as point flies regularly when other foam or buoyant flies need to be removed.

Attach a strong, but lightweight hook into the vice and run a layer of thread down the hook, here i’ve used a Kamasan B175. Take a pinch of natural deer hair, sort the longer fibers from the shorter fibers and put into a hair stacked. Repeat this proccess three times for the tail and two wings. Tie in one pinch of deer hair as a tail and secure in place.

Tie in a length of FlyBox Hackle in black for the first third of the body. After each turn, pull the fibers back so they don’t get trapped down and create a full sectioned body. Take the second bunch of deer hair and tie in as a wing, the same length as the tail. Take another colour of fritz , here i’ve used red to create a bibio style pattern. A great colour combination and fly for targeting heather fly feeders!

Take another amount of deer hair and tie in over the middle section of fritz. To finish off, neaten up the head with thread and make a few turns with the remaining black hackle at the head and tie off. Apply a small amount of varnish and the fly is read to use.

Fly of the Week – KJ Red Spinner

Fly of the week1 Fly of the Week   KJ Red SpinnerWith this not so fish friendly weather, most anglers stay in doors until the temperature drops enough not to get blistered by the sun. This usually means fishing into the evening until darkness falls, a magical time of day if you ask me. As the Dunns return to the water to lay their eggs (the end stage of the dunns life) it releases it’s egg sacks on the surface of the river, the Dunn becomes lifeless and is an easy target for any trout and can provide some of the BEST fishing you can ever find.

More commonly known as a sherry spinner, this pattern has proved deadly for me over the last few weeks, helping secure a team Gold in the Rivers International late June. 

Select a favourite dry fly hook, here I’ve used a Kamasan B170 hooks, a light-wire hook which boasts good strength, especially with the chance of hooking a monster. Run a layer of thread down the shank of the hook and stop just as the hook bends into the gape. You need a strong and reliable thread when tying this fly, try using UTC Thread 70 in brown, it gives a flat spread and practically disappears on the hook.

Select four red game feathers and tie them in as the tail. You can play around with the lengths of the tail to achieve the look that you want – I usually opt to make the tails the same length of the body. Tie in a pearl rib, here I’ve used a small pearl strand from a hank of krinkle flash. For the body, dub a rope of coppery/red dubbing onto the thread, just enough to cover 2/3rds of the hook shank.

Wind the dubbing in touching turns leaving sufficient room for a thorax. Run the rib in evenly spaced segments over the body and tie off.

Take a few strands of brown antron for the thorax cover, you can use any colour you like, but I prefer to keep things colour coordinated. For the wings, take two prime CDC feathers, strip the side of each one and remove the ‘crap’ at the bottom. Position on the top of the hook and secure with the thread. Repeat this three more times using each side of the two CDC feathers.

Dub more dubbing onto the thread and wind around the wings, covering the thorax. Pull the antron thorax cover through the bunch of CDC tips to split, this gives the impression of a spent dunn and allows you to see it at distance. You can also add a white CDC post over the back if you like to give it more visibility into darkness.

Fly of the Week – Red Holographic Sea Trout Tube

Fly of the week Fly of the Week   Red Holographic Sea Trout Tube
Red is another favourite for sea trout here in the UK, as well as blue (see last weeks fly of the week here), red has a massive following especially on certain rivers where Sewin seem to prefer a specific colour. This fly is one of our favourites here at Fishtec and has produced some of our best catches when we have time away from the office to get on the river! Give this combination a go, you may just be surprised of the results…

Start off by sliding an aluminium tube onto a tube fly needle and push tightly into the adapter. Here I have used the Eumer Tube Fly Vice, the perfect tool for tying tube flies. Run your thread onto the top of the tube and create a platform to tie the wing onto. This layer of thread will ensure the wind stays firmly in place and not slip through the thread.

Take a pinch of black bear and offer it up to the top of the tube, securing directly to the top side of the tube. Strip off a few strands of red Schlappen and tie in as a throat hackle. Remove the excess over the end of the tube and tie in two strands of Red holographic flash on each side

Take two jungle cock eyes, I prefer packed jungle cock as you get consistently sized feathers. Remove the excess and tie in over the same area of the blue holographic. Remove the waste and whip finish off. Varnish the head to secure the tying in place and you’re done!

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the Week – Green Apps

Fly Of The Week Fly of the Week   Green Apps This green apps bloodworm is a simpler version of the Red Apps Bloodworm tied last week. This fly consists of just two materials excluding the hook and takes just a couple of minutes to complete. Preferably used on small stillwaters on the dropper of a multiple fly cast, the un-weighted green apps bloodworm will fish well under the bung or as a single fly. Kieron Jenkins shows how to tie his favourite version of this deadly fly pattern – Tie them in a variety of colours and see for yourself!

Take a strong hook and attach it in the vice. Here I have used a Kamasan hook, the B170 Size 10 and Flu Green UTC Thread. You can match the colour of your thread to the flexi floss legs you’ll be adding or contrast the colours to give the fly more attraction.

Run the thread down the hook creating a nice layer of thread on the hook, stop just short of opposite the barb and take a strand of flu green flexi floss. Double the floss up and tie in the looped end, securing along the length of the body ensuring that the all the floss is tied down. Make your way back to the eye and take another strand of flexi floss, double it up and tie off in the same way.

Run the thread over the body a few times to create a neat and even body. Simply whip finish when you’re happy and superglue the body to add extra durability.

Hook: Kamasan b170 Size 10
Thread: Flu Green70 UTC
Body: Thread
Tail: Flexi Floss
Front Legs: Flexi Floss
Glue: Airflo Stik-IT super glue

See more fly tying video on Fishtec TV

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the Week – Red Apps Bloodworm

Fly Of The Week4 Fly of the Week   Red Apps Bloodworm

Kieron Jenkins shows how to tie the deadly, but simple red apps bloodworm. Tied with just two materials excluding the hook and the thread, this pattern is one of the quickest, most effect stillwater flies to ever grace our fly boxes. The red apps was designed to imitate bloodworm balling in silt, making a very easy meal for hungry trout. Used as a nymph, under a bung or as a lure, this fly has taken many specimen trout from waters all around the UK including many stillwater records!

Start off by threading six glass beads onto a hook. Here I have used a Kamasan B170 size 10 hook as it gives enough room on the hook to comfortably position six glass beads. Attach your thread just behind the eye of the hook and tie in two strands of flexi-floss. Taper the thread and apply a dab of super glue ensuring to thread the first bead tightly to the eye. The glue will secure the thread and lock the bead in place.

Repeat the process at the back of the hook with another two strands of red flexi-floss. Apply more glue to ensure both the bead and threads security.

Tie an overhand knott in a length of flexi-floss and pass over the front of the hook positioning the knot between the middle of the 6 beads. Pull tight and glue in place, cutting the flexi-floss at your preferred length. You could even leave the middle lengths out if the fly seems too big.

One thing to note with this fly is the beads may twist around the hook, but this isn’t an issue as the two at each end should hold them in place if glued and tied in correctly. Ensure these ‘stoppers’ are secured correctly before fishing with.

Hook: Kamasan b170 Size 10
Thread: Red 70 UTC
Body/Beads: 6x Red Glass Beads
Tail: Flexi Floss
Middle legs: Flexi Floss
Front Legs: Flexi Floss

See more fly tying video on Fishtec TV

Written by Kieron Jenkins

Fly of the Week – Mayfly Nymph

Fly Of The Week2 Fly of the Week   Mayfly Nymph
The Mayfly Nymph is the first stage of a Mayflies life cycle, preferring to live in silty or sand bottoms, this nymph becomes part of a trouts main food source over the next month or so. The mayflies usually last for just over a month with the abundance of them making an appearance in just one to two weeks. Keep your eye out and be prepared for when the fish turn onto them!

Attach a Kamasan B175 hook into the vice and lay a neat bed of thread onto the hook shank. Mayfly nymphs seem to move like it’s olive counterparts, in short fast darts, so adding six or seven turns of lead will help give the flies that movement your looking for. Run the thread over the lead securing it into place tapering at each edge.

At the tail, attach four or five strands of pheasant tail and cut the excess off. Then for the rib, simply tie in three extra pheasant tail strands by the tail to get a thin to thick tapering effect from the rib. Dub some tan coloured dubbing onto the thread and wind up over the lead stopping around 2/3 of the way along the hook shank. Rib the body with the pheasant tail and tie off. Add a thorax cover of pheasant tail, this time tied in with the tips facing backwards so when it’s pulled over, the excess PT will create legs.

Gently dub a lighter coloured dubbing as the thorax covering the lead right to the eye. Pull the PT over as the thorax cover and tie in. With the excess tips over the eye, carefully split the remainder evenly over each side and secure with a few turns of thread. Whip the thread off at the head and varnish.

This fly will guarantee fish when the trout are feeding on mayfly!

Hook: Kamasan b175 Size 12
Thread: Brown70 UTC
Tail: Flexi Floss
Rib: Pheasant Tail
Blody: Tan Dubbing
Thorax Cover: Pheasant Tail
Thorax:
Cream Dubbing
Legs:
Pheasant Tail

See more fly tying video on Fishtec TV

Written by Kieron Jenkins

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